In the world of luxury fashion, Hermès is a name that stands for exceptional craftsmanship, absolute elegance and timeless beauty. In addition to its distinctive leather variations (read more in this Secondhandbags blog article), Hermès also offers a selection of exclusive metals for the hardware on its handbags. In this Secondhandbags blog article, we take a look at the fascinating world of Hermès handbag hardware and explore the metal fittings that give these bags their unmistakable shine and charm.
1. Gold (GHW & BGHW):
Gold - The symbol of luxury: The metal of queens and pharaohs has long conveyed a particularly timeless, elegant beauty through its durability and radiance. Hermès offers gold hardware on its handbags in two finishes: a glossy version (GHW) and a matte, brushed version (BGHW). The 18-carat gold-plated hardware used by Hermès adorns clasps, buckles and Tag and adds a glamorous accent that draws the eye. 18 carats correspond to approximately 75% gold content in the metal; 24 carats correspond to 100%.
2. Palladium (PHW & BPHW):
Palladium - Timeless elegance: Hermès palladium hardware is distinguished by its light silver appearance. Palladium is a chemical element that, like ruthenium, belongs to the platinum group metals. The metal is very rare and ranks among the most refined metals used as decorative elements in fashion. Hardware finished with a palladium coating also comes in a glossy (PHW) and a matte, brushed version (BPHW). Palladium-coated hardware has an additional thin layer of silver beneath the top layer.
3. Ruthenium (RHW):
Ruthenium - Modernity and grace: Ruthenium is also a platinum group metal and is occasionally found in small quantities alongside platinum during extraction. Hermès bags with hardware in the distinctive ruthenium finish (RHW) stand out with a slightly darker silver aesthetic than palladium and will likely appear somewhat cooler to most people.
4. Permabrass (PBHW):
Permabrass - Best of both worlds: Hermès Permabrass Hardware (PBHW) looks like a blend of the first two metals and presents a light golden, somewhat softer appearance than classic gold and silver hardware. Visually, it sits on the threshold between gold and palladium, with one foot in the silvery sheen of palladium. The tone pairs well with jewellery in matching colours or mixed with silver and gold, as it sits between gold and silver.
5. Rosegold (RGHW):
Rosegold - Modern & elegant: In recent years, Hermès has also produced bags with a copper-toned rose gold hardware finish (RGHW), chiefly pieces from the Constance line. Rose gold hardware feels modern, with a colouring close to copper, and pairs beautifully with everything from pink to rose tones. If an engagement ring or your favourite jewellery shares this colouring, you can easily lean in that direction when choosing the Bag as well.
6. Black (PVD):
PVD, black as night: The glossy black Hermès PVD hardware creates a truly distinctive look when paired with black leather, and thanks to strong demand as well as limited production numbers, it is not only popular, but highly sought after. The first use of this variation for Hermès dates back to Jean Paul Gaultier and his first “So Black” line in 2010; Gaultier oversaw Hermès’ creative direction from 2003 to 2010. In Jean Paul Gaultier's "So Black" line, PVD stands for "Physical Vapor Deposition" - a specialised coating technique used to refine the metal elements in the collection. Both Hermès Kelly bags and Hermès Birkins, as well as bags from the Hermès Constance line, are released annually as part of the “So Black” line.
Perhaps an inspiration for Gaultier in 2010 was also the Hermès “Millennium Moonlight Kelly” from 2000, which featured a similarly dark ruthenium hardware variation, was unique at the time of its release, and was already celebrated and coveted in the wake of the millennium.
7. Further Variants:
Further variants and editions: Lacquer refers to hardware with an usually colour-coordinated enamel inlay. The crowning touch is undoubtedly diamond settings, which adorn some bespoke creations. Another particularly distinctive detail is the so-called Guilloché hardware. When this is used, silver palladium hardware is engraved with a diamond pattern.